It’s Monday again and after too much pumpkin pie I finally have my adjustable shelf drill guide picture up. So the way this one works is you put a 3/16″ bit as deep as it will go in the drill and create a spacer block to control the drill depth just like a couple of posts ago. The trick is to keep the same side of the jig facing out while drilling all the holes. This jig is for these metal shelf pegs.
The problem with these is if you have a cabinet with shelves on either side of a 3/4″ divider and the holes are drilled all the way through the pegs bump into each other in the middle. That’s why the spacing on the left and right of the jig are different. The 1 1/4″ size was determined by the width of the drill I was using. Any closer to the back of the cabinet and it could not be drilled strait. Then the 1 5/8″ side moves the opposite hole over 3/8″. I usually end up making new drill guides whenever they are needed as they are usually too specific to reuse much.
Wednesday and its time for more on cabinet doors and yet another jig. This time we had an entire kitchens worth of cabinet doors made by a cabinet company but none of them were drilled for hinges. Hinges can get crazy. You might think oh hinges are hinges, but not so much. There are hinges that mount on the outside or are hidden, some that mount on cabinets with face frames or without, several different overlay amounts (when the door is closed how far does the door cover over the stile) and soft close or not and it seems that every different manufacturer has discovered a slightly different way to accomplish these and other features. But fear not for once you figure out what you actually need a jig can be made that makes it easy to drill many holes with a high degree of precision. For this jig I used a piece of wood cut to 8″ long and I added a strip of wood on the back along one side so it can bump against the side of the door. The hole is drilled so that it leaves 1/8″ of wood on the side of the door. Different hinges need holes drilled in different places. For these doors we decided to put the hinges 3″ from the top and 3″ from the bottom. So the jig was made with little holes above and below the big hole exactly at 3 inches. There’s a little nail with some blue tape on it in the picture and that’s to put through the small hole and use it as a stop so they can bump on the top or the bottom of the door so it puts the center hole where it’s going to be drilled right at 3 inches from the edge. That way you can make them very consistent and it’s easy to line up quickly. There are three clamps in the picture I’ve got one of them on the upper left hand corner of the door it’s there clamping the the the door to the table beneath it and the other two are clamping the jig in place so that it doesn’t move when it is being drilled.
Thankfully on all the European hinges Iv’e seen they use the same size hole. For all the holes needed at posistions other than 3″ there is a line on far side of the jig that doesn’t show up in the picture that lines up with the center of the large hole.
The way I use this jig is to clamp the door to the table with a little bit of the left and near edge hanging over then slide the jig to the right spot for that hole and clamp it down on both sides. Then drill through the big hole in the jig part way down to get the hole started then remove the jig and drill the rest of the way down. You know when to stop when the drill bit is flush with the surface of the door. It is definitely more difficult to translate a 3 dimensional thing and a process into words than it is to do it.
Tuesday happens once again and I figured I would put something on another jig. For this one what was needed was two holes a certain depth on either side of the back of several drawers. For making this jig the fixed dimensions were how far up and distance in from the sides and the depth of the hole. The width of the drawers were all different and the holes are mirror images of each other so the jig had to have the holes on both sides. Easy to use just slide the jig left and right and drill. So for the depth adjustment I put the drill bit in the drill as deep as it can go, that way it is easy to reset if I need to do something else and come back, then take the length of the drill bit minus the thickness of the jig and minus the depth of the hole needed and make block of wood that thick. I usually make the block small so it doesn’t swing around much. The other important thing is the type of bit. I like the bradpoint tips since there is less likely hood of them walking.
Speaking of walking I’m out of here.
Monday happens again and I was thinking about the router setup in the picture above. I made a router table a few years ago and just replaced the top. The whole thing is wood which has the advantage that I can screw extensions and attachments on anywhere I want. The downsides are since it is wood it can warp or bend and the thickness is sometimes a problem. All that aside the challenge this time was to round the edges of some 1/4″ ply wood, the problem is that with this particular bit it cuts right to the edge of the wood which leaves nothing to contact the bearing thus the need for the wooden fence. The trick to using it is to have the front face of the fence line up with the near side of the bearing then slide the piece being rounded along the fence without letting the corners dive into the notch. Also there must be some part of the piece that does not get removed otherwise it will get shorter each time it goes through and it is usual for things to go thru multiple times.
There are many ways to play with angles but for doing things like moulding or wrapping wood around something like in the above picture there is a simple but important difference between saws and the way you define angles in geometry. On a miter saw if you set the angle at 0 degrees it creates a 90 degree angle. A different way to look at it is if you are joining boards end to end like you would with baseboards the angle to set the saw to is half the change direction you want to make. For example the corner in the picture above has 2 turns making a 90 degree total change in direction. Each turn is 45 degrees so the saw gets set to 22.5 degrees each way.
An observation about this style of sink valve when you get air in the water lines turn the water on very slowly or you get blasted below the belt with water when the bubbles come out.
Here we have a Murphy bed I worked on a while ago. It starts as a small box with a few hinges, odds and ends, and some instructions. The DVD that comes with it is helpful for creating the first one. The only annoying thing is the constant warnings not to modify the design in any way which is quite valid in many things there are pneumatic cylinders that must be located in just the right place and the main hinges must be located correctly or it won’t open right. Anyway we had to make the box deeper than the original plan and so we created a storage space behind the headboard. Makes for a good place to keep pillows. And the rather large drawers on each sideside work for blankets. The shelves are adjustable and I don’t have a good picture of my jig for drilling the holes, have to create one next week. One more interesting thing, the darker blue outside rectangles on top half of the bed are actually the legs. The fun continues.
When working on something like the sprinkler system shown above it is so much easier to just take a picture and be able to see how all the parts connect and in this case what each wire does all with the push of a single button. Simple trick too easy to ignore.
I saw this bug the other day and was able to get a picture of it. Granted it is a bit fuzzy and bugs does not fit with most of the other posts, but I thought it was interesting. Minor mystery. What kind of bug is it? What does it do? Can it help something? Does it indicate something? What does it eat? Unknowns across the board. Hopefully some day I will have some of those answers for now its a curious bug.
One way to control dust while remodeling is to have a second person hold a shop vac as c!ose as practical to the source of the dust. Once that stuff escapes it will fly around and get everywhere. Sometimes that is somewhat OK but usually it is not. At the very least you will end up breathing it which just doesen’t rate very highly. Some tools have built-in dust collection, which helps some, but most do not and with a good shop vac the problem is greatly reduced. So far my favorite vaccuumes are from Ridgid.
Right now I have the comments turned off due to an overwhelming pile of spam comments from mostly drug companies. I will change that in the future, but for now it’s too much of a hastle.